1 gig?! 800 mb?! What in the holy ghosts name are you uploading?
I have had mixed success moving things from one to the other. I’ve found sometimes that combining curves and such (which may have been individual letters with a gradient, for example) can actually help hold the gradient when it’s moved into the other program.
For the most part though, I’ve found that it’s better to cut your losses and just re-create the gradients after you’ve moved everything.
go go gadget team effort! I didn’t even think to assemble an example for him. Good work Raincutter.
I think it depends on what it is you are offering in your package. If you are simply giving a single card layout, you would probably be best off to do it as a PSD . If your card had a lot of line work, you could always do that in Illustrator/Corel and then place the file into your PSD as a smart object (Rasterize it if you wish).
Now if you wanted the end user to have full control, you could do the whole embedded in the PSD , but also offer them the AI file(s) as well. You could also include an 8-up or 10-up InDesign file if you wanted to add additional value.
You could do your whole card in AI or ID but the fact is (as previously stated) most of the clientele here won’t have the whole suite. The first program they will buy will be Photoshop, because that’s what everyone else uses.
I’m a student, so they pound into my head that you should use the right program to do the job, which is great is you have a choice. If you don’t have 1800 dollars to shell out for the additional options, you go with the one most people use.
The best way, then, to generate sales here is to do the design in Photoshop (the most used program of those what come to GraphicRiver) and then provide additional value by adding the other formats.
If the sticker you hosted on your site wasn’t part of the package that you sold here, you could do that. You could target it as a bonus pack that works with the one you are selling here. That way you don’t have any duplicated items (selling here and giving away there) to cause you any grief.
Generally so long as it is not part of the packages you sell here, it should be fine.
That looks like a Gill Sans to me.
First you should make sure that you’re working in a high enough resolution – 300 is the norm for print work, but it depends on what you’re printing onto.
Firsh makes a good point about starting off on the right foot. If you pick a CMYK profile to begin with, you’ll always be operating within the gamut that you’ll be printing in. This isn’t always the case since you may be making this for screen as well as print and you want your screen version to pop. Also selecting CMYK from the start generally puts you at 300 ppi automatically, saving you some grief.
Remember though that if you are going to be using it for web as well, you’ll need to drop said ppi down to 72 or else things will look huuuge on monitors. That’s a different conversation involving proper resampling and such.
20jan10 basically has it down right, you can do what Crozer suggests (cmd/ctrl+y) but the default CMYK conversion for photoshop is, well, terrible. It doesn’t do a good conversion and you’ll notice a lot of colour shifting.
I would also avoid flattening anything until you’re all finished. Basically after you do your conversion and you’re happy with it, you would save it out as a flattened TIFF or PDF to help conserve space and not destroy the RIP on the printers machine(s). This way you still have your working file and a “for print” file.
Anyways I can’t speak to Crozer’s custom CMYK (it varies from printer to printer) but a good start in my opinion would be to switch the colour profile to U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2. It’s got a good colour gamut / management. If your printer has specific colour profiles they want you to print in (or supply you one) you should follow their directions as they know their printers best.
Oh and when doing the conversion, If you can get the Adobe Color Management Module, that will do the best conversion to minimize color shifting:
Install that and select it under the “Conversion Options” > Engine in the “Convert to Profile…” window talked about earlier. If you don’t have/want that one, avoid the Adobe ACE engine, as from everything I’ve been told, it’s crap.
I just finished a project creating a 8×12in poster at 300dpi. It ridiculously bogged down my comp and took about a half hour to save. The bigger problem is that i have a project coming up to create a 36×24in poster at 300dpi. How the hell a i going to do that if 8×12 nearly broke me! Obviously I need a new comp, I know that part, but is there anyone that can create a 36×24in graphic at 300dpi without problems? Any ideas on what I should go for with a new comp since i am doing this kind of work?Probably less dpi you need? 300 is too much for that size IMHO .
300 dpi is pretty standard for high-quality print. Granted it depends on the stock and all it’s getting printed on, but I’d assume that it being a poster, 300 is where you’d want to keep it.
As for your speed issues, yeah new hardware would help. Depending on the program you’re using (photoshop, I assume) you may be able to adjust some of your preferences to help speed Photoshop up.
- If you go into your Photoshop preferences, and go to performance, you can do a couple things to speed it up.
1. Up the amount of RAM Photoshop is allows to use. I don’t know your specs so I don’t know what you can give it. But basically, the more the better, but remember that your computer needs some to do other things. I suggest somewhere between 70-80% if you can spare it.
2. If you have a good video card, enable 3D acceleration if it’s available (I have CS3 so I don’t know if you have this or not)
3. Keep your History States Low (This is how many times you can hit undo) lower the better, but be practical. If you usually hit “undo” 20 times, then set it to 20.
4. Lower your Cache levels. I don’t know what this does per say, but keeping it low seems to help performance.
5. If you have a spare hard drive sitting around, consider hooking it into your rig and allowing photoshop to turn it into a scratch disk. That apparently helps a tonne, though I’ve never had the opportunity to do so.
- Under the Type preferences, you can turn off Font Preview, which can help if you have a tonne of fonts.
- Now if you go to your Layers/ Channels/ Paths and turn off the thumbnail previews, that will apparently help out a lot. I’d suggest doing this if your files start getting larger/ more complex to help out. Just remember that you will have to have descriptive layer names or you’ll start getting lost.
To do this, navigate to the panel(s), and under the palette menu, go to ‘Palette Options…’ and turn off your thumbnails. The Layers, Channels, and Paths panels all have this option.
Having said all this, if your hardware is truly in need of updating, these fixes will only help you so far.
Chrome, totally. Firefox got really crashy and laggy for me in the last little while, so I switched to chrome and haven’t looked back.
at least any that you’ve submitted to the Envato Marketplace(s) are retrievable… assuming of course you had submitted any for selling.
That does suck though. pat on the shoulder